At every national park there's a window of time that's perfect for experiencing the best of the great outdoors--because you go to see nature, not thousands of other tourists.
by Paul Brady, David LaHuta, Erin Richards, Erik Torkells, and Brad Tuttle November 30, 2007
January/February As wonderful as Yosemite and Yellowstone are in summer, the peaceful outdoorsy vibe can be spoiled by having to elbow for space to snap a photo of El Capitan or line up 10 deep at Old Faithful. The premier parks are far less crowded--and arguably more beautiful--in the heart of winter. Snow drapes the mountains, meadows, and every last tree branch, and things are never quieter or more pristine.
But for an off-peak time, there is surprisingly a lot going on. During four weeks in January and February, Yosemite hosts the annual Chefs' Holidays, when the men and women in charge of some of the best restaurants in the country give cooking demonstrations and host five-course dinners during three-day sessions. All events take place in the Ahwahnee, a granite lodge built in 1927, now a National Historical Landmark. Chef presentations are held in the hotel's appropriately named Great Lounge, among its 24-foot-high ceilings, wrought-iron chandeliers, and enormous windows topped in stained glass. Jesse Cool, chef and proprietor of the Bay Area's Flea Street Cafe, has been participating in the event for nearly two decades. "Winter is my favorite season at Yosemite," says Cool, who will be serving braised pork and other "wintery" foods at the upcoming session. "The setting is just gorgeous, especially when it snows." The chef demos and tours of the Ahwahnee kitchen are free. Paired with top wines from California and elsewhere, the dinner costs $155 per person. (Packages that include lodging and the dinner are available--and often a better deal.)
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